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Lavender is used for restlessness, insomnia, nervousness, and depression. It is also used for a variety of digestive complaints, loss of appetite, vomiting, nausea, intestinal gas, and upset stomach.
Some people use lavender for painful conditions including migraine headaches, toothaches, sprains, nerve pain, sores, and joint pain. It is also used for acne and cancer, and to promote menstruation.
Some people add lavender to bathwater to treat circulation disorders and improve mental well being.
Day to Maturity: 85 days
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In the northern limit of its range, mulching Lavender plants in late fall will protect them from the winter's cold. Pile wood chips or bark mulch on the plants after a freeze. This will insulate them from the cold, but not cause them to rot. Remove the mulch in early spring.
However, in humid regions, powdery mildew and other fungus diseases can be a problem. Prevent fungal diseases from getting started by spacing plants further apart and in a location with good air circulation. This will keep the leaves dry and less likely to succumb to fungus. Some insects, such as spittlebugs, whiteflies, and aphids, may attack your lavender as well.
Also, sprays of insecticidal soap will kill these pests without harming other beneficial insects, wildlife, and pets. Spray early, before the pests become a big concern. Lavender does not survive well from being divided. To propagate lavender, take cuttings in the early summer. To make cuttings, select a healthy branch, take a 6 inch long cutting, remove the lower leaves, dip the cut end in rooting hormone powder, and place it into a pot filled with moistened potting soil or sand.
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Another propagation method is layering. In spring, bend a healthy, 8-inch long, lower lavender branch to the ground, remove the leaves where it touches the ground, and scar the branch in that spot with a knife. vegetable. Dust the wound with a rooting hormone powder, cover the wound with soil and leave the rest of the branch sticking out of the ground.
Once rooted, cut it away from the mother plant, and transplant it to a new location. Lavender also can self-sow if you leave the flower stalks on the plant. Decide if you want lots of baby lavenders in that area of the garden; otherwise deadhead regularly.
When Debbie McDowell and her husband, Jim, moved from Houston to 23 acres of rolling farmland in Texas bluebonnet country, they decided to do something special. The couple did their research and started planting lavender, an aromatic herb not often found on Texas farms. vegetable. The flowers, they realized, wouldn’t just be beautiful.
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“Over time, we have learned how to manage this plant that is not native to our Texas climate. We’ve had lots of ups and downs, but we’re pleased to be able to produce a plant that most Texans don’t usually have an opportunity to experience.” That was 12 years ago.
Other land is planted with herbs, berries and fruit trees. “Maintenance is always an issue for the lavender,” Debbie adds, “so at this time, we don’t plan to expand past 4 acres.” Lavender, she says, needs a dry, arid climate—“Certainly not what we have here in Texas!” While the plants grow best with about 15 inches of rain a year, the farm gets around 39 inches in a normal year.
The McDowells compensate for the climate by planting two varieties, ‘Sweet’ and ‘Provence,’ both well-suited to their growing conditions. “They are considered hybrids and can withstand our heat and humidity better.” From mid-April into June, the flowers of ‘Sweet’ lavender open at Chappell Hill Farm - Read more. ‘Provence’ blooms from late July through October, keeping the fragrant flower show going.
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The McDowells sell bundles of the perfumed flowers or turn the oil from the plants into soaps, lotions, shampoos for pets, teas, coffees and more. Other, shorter-stemmed varieties aren’t as good for bundling, Debbie says, but make great specimen plants. She says ornamental varieties like Spanish lavender, ‘Fern Leaf,’ and ‘Goodwin Creek’ do well in Texas, although she and Jim don’t grow them.
November is a good time to plant, Debbie says, when “the hot weather is over, but it’s not too cold, so the plants can get acclimated before the actual winter arrives.” Springtime is a bit trickier. By April, the temperatures are rising and there may be too much rain. “Lavender is actually easy to grow, if you follow some guidelines.” When choosing your plants, keep in mind that lavender is native to the Mediterranean, where the winters are cool and moist and the summers are hot and dry.If you garden in the north, look for cold-tolerant varieties or grow in containers you can bring indoors for the winter.
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In a formal garden, lavender may be clipped to form a low hedge or an aromatic border along a path. In a rock garden, a single plant or just a few plants may be used to great effect as an accent. And, of course, lavender is a natural choice for any herb garden.
Lavender also grows quite well in containers (vegetable). In the Deep South, it actually does better in pots, as it benefits from improved drainage and air circulation. While the plants thrive in arid Western climates, they are usually considered annuals in the South.
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and has been known to survive up to 15 years in home gardens - grow organic vegetables. Longevity can be increase through many methods of lavender growing. Soil preparation, soil amendments, drainage, pruning, winter protection and proper harvesting can result in a life long lavender hedge. consist of a Loamy mix of sand, clay soil (south central Ohio) and composted horse manure or organic matter from a old wood lots will be beneficial.Add 2 hand fulls of limestone (a little if using rock instead of ) and a good base Nitrogen starter fertilizer during planting.
It's recommended to use a weed guard material such as polypropylene or other natural woven weed quard. Oyster shell mulch will also help reduce weeding. This summer of 2014 we added a new method to by utilizing wood chips as a mulched bed weed cover, similar to conventional home gardening methods.
Then let the plant thrive on its own adding just a little lime every year to keep the PH up high, preferably 6.9 to 7.5. Using natural mulch materials like wood chips which break down will reduce the need to fertilize year after year. The biggest challenge is choosing a good Angustifolia planting variety that can withstand cold wet winters.
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We have planted in middle of May, June, July, August, and September. Although spring planting has proved to establish a much hardier plant than the fall months all seasonal planting have survival comparable survival rates. The only downfall we have found is the reduced size, yield and second year growth from a lavender plant planted in the ladder part of the growing season.
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This happens when you have several inches of snow covering your plants for longer than several days below freezing. The biggest concern is ICE! Once Ice has accumulated on the branches they will begin to freeze the oil within the stem and the branch will die back. Several years of trial and error with growing experience the farm has developed a guide to to help determine the best growing methods.
It's best to plan a pruning routine to reduce maintenance and to harvest the best dried lavender bundles from your plants in a timely manner. This reduces random pruning and lengthy, woody growth. We have established three methods for to achieve the prefect hedge. The of a newly planted lavender plant it's recommended to as soon as the start to form.
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Having an established lavender plant is essential for surviving the first winter. Allowing your plants to flower the first year of planting greatly reduces the size of your lavender plant for over wintering. This also reduces the second and third year harvested yields and stunts overall plant growth. Typically pruning should take place during the harvesting of lavender bundles. This method reduces loosing valuable buds and eliminates the need to return for another day of pruning your lavender plants.
(see image) Following a harsh winter season as seen during the winter of 2013-14 you may want to prune the entire lavender bush down to the bare woody hedge. You can feel the branches and notice if all the leaves are dry and falling off the branches. Pruning this early in spring with a dose of nitrogen will encourage vegetation to grow (Seeds).
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This is very important when re-generating a thought to be dead lavender plant. After the initial harvest sporadic buds will shoot up and form. Remove each additional lavender stem as ready. If you have tall stems where the buds have formed and flowered off you should prune these down below the first set of leaves before the bud stem starts.
(LEFT)has a specific method on where to cut to reduce stress on the plant. It is known and recommended to . This reduces stress on the plant by avoiding pruning into the woody growth which can lead to rot. Leaving two leaf sets encourages stable growth and a healthier thicker lavender plant.
You should consider how much sun your garden gets, and the type of soil that you have.Lavender is perfectly happy on well-draining soil of poor or moderate fertility and it is extremely drought tolerant (vegetable). It is ideal for chalky or alkaline soils in areas of full sun. Though it will grow in areas with clay soil it will tend to be quite short lived and the stems will become woody.
It is also a good idea to plant lavender on a mound or ridge so roots are not waterlogged.Lavender can be grown in the garden or in containers. Though if you are growing lavender in containers, care should be taken to ensure that you do not over-water. The soil medium should also be mixed with grit to ensure good drainage.
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If there is one thing that lavender does not like, it is having waterlogging around its roots.Lavender can look lovely when planted on the sunny fringes of a forest or woodland garden. It is frequently to be found in cottage gardens. It also finds a place in more formal planting schemes, along the edges of a path, perhaps, where its fragrance can be regularly enjoyed.Lavender can be grown from seed, though it should be noted that this can be tricky since the seed is slow to germinate and germination can be patchy, especially if conditions are not optimal.
You could also divide an existing plant to create a new plant for your garden.More information on lavender propagation can be found later in this article.It is best to plant lavender between April and May, as the soil is beginning to warm up.However, you can also plant out lavender plants in the fall, after the warmth is just beginning to fade.
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If you plan to grow lavender as individual specimen plants, plan to place them around 90cm apart. If you want to create a hedge or border, plant them around 30cm apart. Newly planted lavender in the ground should be watered well during its first summer. But it will be very drought tolerant once established and should require little care.
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One thing to note is that, while it is a great idea to harvest some lavender for your own use, you should still be sure to leave some for the bees and other insects. Towards the end of the growing season, you may also like to consider leaving some of the spent flowering stems as food for seed-eating birds and other wildlife.
Here are just some of the many ways that you could consider using this useful plant:Use fresh in floral displays inside your home.Dry lavender for floral displays.Use lavender (sparingly) in culinary applications. Use lavender to make essential oil or infused oils for a range of uses.Make some soap using home-grown lavender.Create some bath bombs using your lavender.Make lavender unguents or salves for use in herbal medicine.
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Lavender is generally pruned once a year, in early autumn. However, plants are sometimes also given a secondary trim in the spring, to neaten things up after the winter months. Lavender should be pruned each year because a lavender shrub that is left unpruned will become more woody more quickly.
What is more, the woody stems will be more prone to frost or water rot damage and disease, and can crack or break more easily. Pruning lavender, therefore, will help keep your plants healthy and looking good for longer - growfoodguide. Lavender does not generally re-grow well from old wood and so if your lavender plant has become woody and old, it is generally best to replace it.
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Do not be too frightened to cut back your lavender, especially if it is the English variety. Give it a good haircut each year and your plants will look good and remain healthy for much longer. It does not pay to be too tentative.You can remove most of the new, green growth, so long as you cut above the small buds and green shoots that are forming on the lower woody material.
This will encourage it to grow back bushy and full. As mentioned above, while you should prune most of your plant, you may like to consider leaving some still-purple flowers for the bees and other insects, and some spend blooms for seed-eating birds. When pruning your plants, plant health should be the primary concern.
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One of the easiest ways to make new lavender plants is through layering. Layering is a technique which basically involves:Taking a low, woody branch of your lavender plant.Cutting a shallow notch in that branch.Bending the branch downwards, pressing that notch to the ground and making sure that it stays there, covered in soil.Using a peg, or a heavy rock to hold the branch down.Waiting for roots to form.
You can also propagate lavender through cuttings. You can take softwood or semi-ripe cuttings from your young plants in early or mid summer. You can also take hardwood cuttings after the main early autumn pruning. So deciding whether you will take hardwood cuttings, and where on the plant you intend to take them from could be something else to consider before you prune your plant.
If you provide these plants with the right conditions, and prune them well, they should continue to enrich your home and garden for many years to come.
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This can be a difficult question to answer for beginner gardeners because of numerous factors including climate, soil, and experience level. Are you interested in Lavender for its herbal remedies? How about its smell and look? Maybe for its ornamental features? There are so many different ways Lavender can be used - Click here.
When the typical gardener thinks of Lavender they are thinking of It blooms in late spring or early summer and flowers with shades of purple. The plant itself has leaves that are a grayish-green color. French Lavender is more colorful but less fragrant than English or Lavandin Lavenders. When flowering, it gives off a strong pine and camphor smell, which makes it not great for cooking - vegetable.
This type of lavender needs to be planted by sheltered borders or in pots and will flower in early summer to early fall for year-round colors. Lavandin is a hybrid lavender plant that is more vigorous, but less hardy than the English and French varieties. It blooms mid to late summer and it has long spikes that are highly fragrant and features shades of dark violet and white.
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Damp soil can cause unwanted fungus. Sprinkle 2 to 3 seeds per pot about 1/8 inch deep and then gently brush the soil over the seeds. Then spray the soil again 5 to 8 times until it turns a dark color. After planting your seeds, provide at least 8 hours of sunlight by placing the pots by a window or a if your windows do not receive enough sunlight.
A Plant Heating Mat is the perfect way to keep your pots and seeds at a consistent temperature that we may not otherwise be able to (Seeds). After your initial planting, you will need to spray the soil once to twice a day for approximately 2 weeks It will take approximately 2 weeks for your seeds to germinate or “pop” through the soil.
Again, you will want to fill these pots about 80% full with your potting mix. Next, you will want to make a hole approximately 3 inches deep (about the size of your lavender plant at this point). You will then place it in your 5-gallon pot and fill it with soil.
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For about two weeks, you will want to slowly introduce your Lavender to outside. On the first day, you will want to place your Lavender (still in its pot) outside in direct sunlight for approximately 2 hours. Each day thereafter, place the Lavender outside for an additional hour until you build up to 6 straight hours.
Apply approximately 1/4 inch of potting mix to your planter As soon as you apply your fertilizer make sure to water the Lavender for approximately 15 to 20 seconds Every week until harvest water your lavender once or twice a day (depending on the amount of sun and temperature it receives).
Dig your holes in an area that will receive at least 8 hours of light. Then after the last frost transplant your lavender into the garden exactly the same way you transplanted it into the larger pots. Immediately after you transplant your lavender outside add Miracle-Gro Plant Food and water the soil for about 30 seconds.
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Too much water can cause root rot which will render your lavender useless. Sometimes it is just easier to watch a video. vegetable. My recommendation is to prune in the spring, but for more detail explanations of when, why, and how, please watch this video: You will want to harvest your lavender when half the flower buds open.
I highly recommend leaving about 8 to 10 lavender stalks after harvest to help promote the most effective growth for next season. Lavender oil can be used to reduce stress, induce sleep, disinfect the home, helps cure eczema and acne, helps heal wounds, is a natural air freshener, and is great for your hair! If you are interested in learning more about health remedies that lavender can be used for, I highly recommend reviewing Lavender is a great addition to candles, potpourri, and other scented gifts.
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Lavender kept in water or stored in a refrigerator will last only slightly longer, approximately 2 weeks. Or if you want lavender to retain its smell for up to one year then I recommend drying it - vegetable. Below, is a great video on how to dry your lavender. Purchasing Lavender seeds is a much easier task than say tomato seeds, where you have to worry about GMOs, Organic, Heirloom, etc.
This is essential if you want to allow your lavender to grow to its fullest. It is also important if you want to continue to grow your lavender outside. When planting lavender the only type of soil you’ll need is . Very simply, this soil will contain the right mixture of soil, sand, and nutrients needed for your Lavender seeds to grow healthy.
Lavender is an amazing plant and medicinal. It looks nice, smells amazing, and helps heal the body. Lavender is used in soaps, shampoos, perfumes, essential oils, and more. Known to help ailments such as insomnia, anxiety, and depression, lavender is not only good to help cleanse the body but also the mind and spirit.
It may also benefit conditions including alopecia (hair loss), postoperative pain, be used as an antibacterial and an antiviral. Several small studies suggest that lavender aromatherapy may help reduce agitation in those with dementia, as well as help nervous stomach irritations. The essential oil is extracted from the fresh flowers of the plant, and you can find numerous types of lavender essential oils here.
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When a patient is agitated, stressed, or anxious, I place only a few drops of the essential oil around their temples for a calming effect. I also suggest placing a few drops on your pillow before bed to help sleep and reduce stress. For those of my patients with chronic stress and adrenal fatigue, lavender can be a blessing.
Native to the mountainous regions of the Mediterranean, it grows amongst sunshine and stony terrain. Today, it grows all throughout Europe, Australia, and the United States. Lavender is actually a part of the mint family, with a history going back 2500 years or more. The ancient Greeks called it nardus, after the Syrian city of Naarda, and was commonly called Nard.
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Its name derives from the Latin ‘lavare’ meaning to wash, and the Romans used it to scent their beds, baths and beyond (pun intended). While lavender can easily be found in markets, essential oils, boutique ice-creams, and in your favorite scented soaps, how many people do you know grow this wonderful herb indoors? It’s not impossible, and with a bit of good effort, you can grow a thriving lavender plant inside your home.
Stick to your store bought, essential oils, and dried bits. The most important part is to choose a variety of lavender that will thrive indoors and tolerate the conditions inside an apartment or home. French Lavender will be your best bet when trying to grow indoor lavender. Choose one that is of appropriate size and well-draining - gardening.
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If you don’t have a home that is able to get ample and direct sunlight, you may want to rethink growing lavender or get a growing lamp. Good drainage is key. Only water when the soil is dry and allow it to dry out between waterings. However, you still have to make sure it gets plenty of water, and if the leaves are limp, it means you need to water it more.
You will need a soil mix that is light and fluffy. The best soil mix for lavender in containers will have an alkaline pH between 7 and 8 which would mimic it’s natural growing conditions. It likes sand, gravel, and rocky conditions—not the type of soil found in most gardens.
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Feeling the crunch of the soil can help you feel like you’re making a garden outside, even if you’re stuck inside. One Part Finished CompostOne Part PumiceOne Part Coarse SandOne Part Fine SoilLime to Adjust pH to at least 7.0A Few Crushed Eggshells (optional—provides alkaline pH when they degrade) The fertilizer will be needed with lavender grown in containers.
You can get fertilizer mix here. gardening. You will need to do so every year to allow for growth. It’s best to do this in spring before the growing season begins. Keep out of cold temperatures and move inside as soon as colder weather comes. Move plants outside gradually during the spring months as nice weather returns.
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Great! It’s not that difficult to make your own essential oils to enjoy and use medicinally. So let’s get started. It’s easy to bring out the natural oils of lavender with other oils. growfoodguide.com. With a few steps, you’ll be on your way to slathering your homemade essential oil all over yourself and friends.
Another easy method, using alcohol has been used for thousands of years to create tinctures and herbal products. You’ll need to use undenatured ethyl alcohol. I always use Spiritus—Polish vodka containing 95% alcohol per volume and is 190 US proof! Hallelujah. The Poles know what they’re doing. Whatever you do, don’t use rubbing alcohol.
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Try experimenting and see what happens! Growing lavender indoors can be an amazing experience, and doesn’t have to be difficult either. Whether you simply want the sweet aroma of lavender in your home, or if you want to create your own decedent essential oils, lavender is always a great way to go.
When you think of lavenders, it's easy to picture a light purple flower with an extremely sweet fragrance. These pretty bluish-gray hued blooms, ranging from deep purple to light yellow, coupled with sweet fragrance are the perfect choice for one's garden and even terrace. The woody, perennial plant has been long-favored by most gardeners to… - Click here.
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There’s one plant you really shouldn’t be without this summer – and that’s lavender. Better still, push the boat out a bit and have a small collection.Why? Well, lavenders have it all. They are fashionable, scented and they attract bees. If you choose several species, you can have some plants in flower from now through to autumn.
But the very latest thing is to have one of the slightly tender botanical species trained as a small standard plant, in a pot on the patio or in the conservatory.Lavenders don’t just look and smell good, they are useful, too. You can cut the flowers for a vase indoors, dry them and rub off the individual florets to use as potpourri or make into scented sachets for your “frillies” drawer.
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It’s one of those things that people did years ago in cottage gardens. Lavenders are easy to grow, but it’s the old story – they need the right growing conditions. Being natives of the Mediterranean region, they like well-drained soil that’s not too rich, and a warm, sheltered, sunny spot that’s not too draughty.Garden centres stock a range of the most popular varieties, but why not take a trip to a lavender farm, such as Norfolk Lavender at Heacham in Norfolk (01485 570384) or a specialist nursery, such as Downderry Nursery, Hadlow, in Tonbridge, Kent (01732 810081), for a bigger selection?Plant them now, at the start of the flowering season, and you’ll enjoy a heavenly scented summer – they’ll be even better from next year onwards.
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Don’t let it become waterlogged either, so resist the temptation to leave it standing in a saucer in case it rains. The trick is to water little and often.Lavenders aren’t difficult plants to look after, but you must prune them. vegetable. An unkempt lavender soon turns from a neat, busy youngster into a straggly geriatric with bare, arthritic woody stems, stunted bunches of foliage and very few flowers.
But go about it in different ways for different kinds of lavender. The traditional English type of lavender and its hybrids, which have long spikes of flowers in June and July, want a light, all-over clipping as soon as the flowers are over – avoid cutting back into old wood if you possibly can.Lavandula stoechas cultivars start flowering in May, and these only want regular deadheading – removing each of the big knobbly dead flowers complete with a short stalk as soon as they go over, but leaving the rest of the plant untouched.
Lavender is a fantastic all-rounder – it can be grown in pots or in the ground, is evergreen, fantastic for pollinators and suits different garden styles, from cottage gardens to gravel gardens. Most commonly grown are English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) and French lavender (Lavandula stoechas), as well as x intermedia hybrids.
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French lavender is frost hardy, so is best kept in containers and protected over winter. There are lots of ways to use lavender, too – try creating lavender bath oil, lavender bath bags or in the kitchen as a part of sweet or savoury dishes. Outside, try using lots of lavender plants to create a scented lavender garden.
Discover 10 of the best lavenders to grow. English lavender and most hybrid types are hardy and can be left in the garden all year. 1 Best lavenders to grow – ‘Hidcote’ ‘Hidcote’ is one of the best known of all lavender varieties, for good reason. It’s a compact variety of English lavender with mid-purple flowers and is ideal for planting in borders or as dwarf hedging.
It has pale, purple-pink flowers held above green-grey foliage. Find out how to use this dwarf variety in a lavender and thyme hanging basket. 3 Best lavenders to grow – ‘Lady Ann’ ‘Lady Ann’ is a compact variety of English lavender, growing to around 45cm in height. The flowers are pale pink and have a slight fragrance.
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Deadhead the flowers once they’re past their best. 6 Best lavenders to grow – French lavender ‘Fathead’ ‘Fathead’ is a vigorous variety with a good scent, so it’s good for drying. French lavenders are best grown in sunny, sheltered areas. Try growing lavender as part of a nectar-rich container display.
It has pure white blooms and makes an excellent cut flower. 8 Best lavenders to grow – ‘Gros Bleu’ ‘Gros Bleu’ is a large, attractively branched variety with pale-purple blooms. A lovely choice for borders, as a hedge and for cut flowers. Discover more perennials to grow for cut flowers.
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Looks good planted with rosemary and thyme, which enjoy similar growing conditions. 10 Best lavenders to grow – Lavandula x christiana Lavandula x christiana is one of the rarer lavender hybrids. It’s hardy and has beautiful feathery foliage, similar to that of some artemisias, and tall purple flower spikes. Lavender cuttings are some of the easiest to take, and will reward you with lots of new plants for free - vegetable.
Most lavenders are started from cuttings taken from Mother plants. This is both fast and accurate, producing an exact replica of the original plant. Starting Lavender from seeds sounds like a great inexpensive way to get all the lavender you desire but it can have some major drawbacks. The first obstacle is finding the seeds.
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The second drawback is what we call 'low and slow' germination. Lavender seeds have a short shelf life, and therefore the germination rate (how many seeds out of 100 come up) is usually pretty low. They can also take a long time to sprout (two weeks or more) and this invites fungus to the seed tray, often causing the seed to rot before it can sprout.
The germination temperature should be around 70 degrees and spring seeding is more successful than fall seeding. Those seeds that do sprout will take one to three months before they have enough roots and top growth to allow successful transplanting. Adding fertilizer to the sterile medium used in the seed tray can help the little plants get off to a better start, but it can also invite fungus in cool, humid situations.
They might also vary some in height and width. This was the surprise our customer had. The perfect hedge of Hidcote Lavender she had dreamed about and worked so hard to grow the plants for turned out to be more like a cottage garden: still beautiful, but irregular in form and color.
The most important factor to get right with Lavender is drainage. Soggy areas should definitely be avoided. Incorporate organic matter if necessary to make a loose friable soil. Compost is the best amendment because it is fertile and has uneven particle sizes. Uneven particles in the soil create better air spaces and give the roots better anchors to attach themselves to.
If the soil is too acidic the Lavender will not thrive. If the soil is too alkaline, the nutrients are 'tied' up in the soil and the plant cannot use them. Yellowed growth can be indicative of a soil that is out of balance - Read more. Adding compost can help to balance the pH.
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Solarization works to remove not only tenacious weeds, but also kills weed seeds. Small Lavender plants cannot compete with aggressive weeds, and weeding after they are planted can be a huge hassle. Weeding often becomes such a chore that Lavenders are overrun and eventually die in a neglected field. Mulching with a small particle mulch or compost after planting helps with the weed control, but avoid mulching right up to the stem of the small plant.
If you are in hot, humid areas, try planting Lavenders in a raised bed or on a mound. Leave plenty of room between plants for air circulation. Lavenders are not ideally suited to heat and humidity, so be prepared for problems, such as fungal disease and rot. For ultimate show, space plants according to their height measurement.
By spacing these 3 or 4 feet apart, the effect when the plant is blooming is spectacular. If it is more important that the plant make a tight row or hedge, then plant closer together. If planting in pots, make sure to repot every spring into a larger container with fresh soil to allow the plant to continue to mature and to provide as many flowers as possible.
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More often, problems arise because the soil is not healthy. Avoid chemicals in pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers that kill or starve the beneficial organisms in the soil. In arid regions with no summer water, irrigation will be necessary for the survival of the plants. While Lavender is extremely drought resistant once established, it grows larger and produces more blooms with regular watering.
While this may sound obvious, it is important to let it dry out a bit before soaking it again. In humid areas, this can be difficult and the excess moisture often causes death. Zones 8 and up can plant Lavender in spring and fall, but other zones are better off with a spring planting after the last frost.
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It is important that the plant actually make good root development into the native soil before severe winter weather occurs. Lavender grows slowly in the fall and often plants are not sufficiently established to get through winter rains and cold. It takes about three years for a Lavender to reach full size.
Pruning should not be confused with harvesting. Pruning is necessary to extend the life of the plant. Lavender flower wand stems are usually a bright green while Lavender leaves are gray. Cut back not only the flower stem, but also about a third of the gray-leaved stems as well. If the plant has been neglected, it can be cut back further, but avoid pruning back so far that only woody stems with no leaves are showing.
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Harvesting Lavender is one of the most enjoyable pleasures any gardener can have. Lavender flower heads look gray before the flowers open. They are devoid of most color and it is easy to become impatient waiting for them to burst into bloom. Once the color is bright and vivid, that is the time to start cutting.
In humid areas, try to cut on dry days. For arrangements, it is easiest to arrange the Lavender while it is fresh and supple - vegetable. This can be done in the garden if it is not too hot. If the weather is very warm (even in the morning), take a bucket of water, filled about a quarter of the way, and submerge the cut end of the stems into the bucket.
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Some Lavenders hold their buds better than others. Grosso Lavender is preferred for wand making and dried arrangements because the flowers stay on the stem better. This is something to consider if your primary focus is to REMOVE the dried buds for bulk use, such as potpourri. Provence Lavender is more suited to this because the buds release easily from the calyx (too easily for dried bouquets or wands).
Actually, what happens is that the little flowers fall out and what is left is the calyx and any unopened buds. Most Lavenders bloom for about 5 weeks, so do a little experiment in your garden to see when the harvest is best for your needs. If you are harvesting a lot of Lavender, try this tip from the Lavender experts at Purple Mountain Majesty.
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You pull and cut the first bunch into your left hand with one motion. The process is repeated without removing the cut material until you have completely cut counterclockwise around the plant essentially twisting the cut stalks around the center uncut stalks as you go. This keeps even the largest bundles under control because the whole bundle winds around the center uncut stalks creating enough friction to keep everything together and eventually captured under your left arm.
Lavender smells like it should taste wonderful, but the taste of most Lavenders is a little like turpentine. The flavor is not one that can be easily defined nor is it one most people like right away. It is like a fine wine with many subtleties. Both fresh and dried flowers and leaves are used in culinary preparations.
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Or, it can be blended with other herbs, as in herbs de Provence. This mix, used in many savory dishes, often finds dried Lavender leaves and flowers mixed with other members of the mint family, like Rosemary, Sage, Oregano, Thyme and Mint. Used not only to make life smell richer and more tolerable, but also as a medicinal relief for ailments from headaches to insomnia, Lavender oil has always been a prize.
Often referred to as English Lavenders, these Lavenders are native to the western half of the Mediterranean. gardening. Now cultivated in many countries, it was thought the finest Lavender grew in England and thus the common name English Lavender evolved and is still the name most folks use when referring to Lavender products.
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The French nom de plume refers to where it is grown and not which plant it is from. gardening. French Lavender oil is really English Lavender oil produced in France!Many of our lavenders are often available in plug trays. These trays hold 128 of all the same plant. They are a great low cost way to fill a lot of space.
We have lavender in the garden but why not bring that smell inside? Lavender is a beautiful plant to have in the kitchen or at your bedside (gardening). It has many uses and if you have a few plants in your home you'll soon find many more! Growing lavender in pots makes really great gifts for friends or family that need a stress relief.
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Learn how to start off lavender right and give it a great place in your house. You might be inspired to grow other helpful plants inside, read how to grow basil indoors here. Lavender is amazing to see grow from a seed. And it's much cheaper than buying plants and you can try more varieties.
But it is difficult. Seedlings are not very resilient when they're young. Start at least two or three times the number of seeds you'd like to grow. Expect only a portion of those to make it to maturity. Even when they're still seeds, be careful of over watering. They don't need to stay damp.
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Once they're sprouted, put them under light for at least 12 hours a day for the first few months. Learn about using an LED to start plants indoors and keep them healthy throughout their whole lifetime. Lavender can also be started from cuttings. This is faster than starting from a seed and it's pretty easy to be successful.
The most important aspect in propagation is getting roots to develop. I usually do four or six at a time to ensure I have a lot of viable plants. For lavender, start by taking cuttings about 4 inches long. Make sure you cut above a node and at a 45 degree angle.
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Strip some bark or skin off of the bottom. This encourages the plant to develop roots there. Now they're ready to be planted into dirt. Insert the bottom half into a pot with soil. Give it some water. You can expect the roots to take at least 3 weeks to develop.