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I had to start growing escarole after hearing emotional tales from my mother-in-law and her sisters about their family’s holiday meals—multi-course, gut-busting, Italian-American feasts, in which escarole soup was the prominent first course. Since I always listen to my mother-in-law, I tried growing escarole in my garden. I found that escarole soup deserved its high praise.

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Two varieties of endive, the shoestring-type ‘Tosca’, left, and the larger-leaved ‘Salad King’, right, are destined for the salad bowl. The unblanched head of escarole at upper left will make a savory calzone filling. Escarole and endive are annual chicories of the same species, Cichorium endivia, differing only in leaf shape.

Both can be used either raw as a salad ingredient, or cooked, most commonly sautéed or in soups. Americans are probably most familiar with the very narrow-leaved, curly endive often called “frisée” (which means curled in French). It is an important component in the cut-and-washed salad mixes that have become popular in recent years.

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There are many varieties of endive and escarole available to the gardener, with an array of leaf shapes and plant habits. Most come from Europe, where chicories are popular, common vegetables. They are as easy to grow as lettuce, and can be lifted into the fancy class by blanching—that is, by limiting the light reaching the plant in its last stage of growth.

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As with all greens, continuous, rapid growth is the key to producing a quality product - Click here. To this end, you can control the time of planting, the amount of irrigation, and the degree of soil fertility. Like lettuce, endive and escarole require only moderate soil fertility. I’ve found periodic additions of compost—I add a thin layer at least once a year—are sufficient to keep my soil in an adequately fertile range.

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I used to apply oyster shell calcium, but that also adds magnesium, and my soil here in Sonoma County is already high in magnesium. Now I use gypsum, applying 10 to 20 pounds per 200 square feet once a year, at least several weeks ahead of planting. I prefer gypsum because it’s hard to use too much, and it also breaks up my heavy soil.

You can direct-seed escarole and endive, but I prefer to start plants in the greenhouse because they reach maturity faster that way. I sow seeds in foam Speedling trays (any type of cell-pack would work), starting a month to six weeks before I want to put plants in the ground.

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When the seedlings are four to five weeks old, I transplant them into the garden. Escarole takes eight or more weeks to reach maturity from transplanting, about the same length of time as fennel and radicchio, so I often grow these fall crops in the same bed. Endive is ready in about six weeks, comparable to butter and romaine lettuces.

I transplant into my 4-foot-wide beds in a triangular pattern. This gives me a uniform, fuller stand, and more plants per area than when I use rows. Relatively close spacing can be used with all endive and escarole varieties to force upright growth and some self-blanching. I plant endive seedlings on 6- to 8-inch centers.

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Once the plants are in the ground, I irrigate regularly, and use light sprinklings to cool the plants in hot weather, just as I do for lettuce. I’ve found that summer planting for fall harvest is best for both escarole and endive. In fact, it’s the only time I grow escarole, which tends to bolt before reaching full size if planted in spring.

Fortunately, here in northern California I have a long fall growing season and can harvest into December from a late September transplanting. Optimum growing temperatures for both greens are 45°F to 75°F. Adjust your schedule to your area so that the later stages of plant growth fall within this temperature range.

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Growing in early spring is possible but presents several problems. Cold spells can delay growth. Click here. Lengthening days lead to a tendency to bolting. And the weather often becomes too hot before the plants mature, resulting in an overly bitter flavor. You can harvest endive and escarole at any stage, but to get a blanched effect, you need full heads.

The time a plant is tied up may have to be increased if the plant is growing slowly, in cold weather, for example. An alternative method is to place a 1-gallon plant container over the whole plant, again about five days before harvest. Endive is traditionally blanched, whereas escarole is used more as a cooking green.

To harvest, simply cut the plant at ground level, trim away any bad outer leaves, wash, and you’re ready to go. I like to separate the inner, more tender leaves for use in salads, keeping the outer, greener leaves for cooking. A good variety to try when first growing endive is the old American standard, ‘Salad King’.

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I also grow the curly endive ‘Tosca’ . It is a large variety of the ‘Très Fine Maraîchère’ class, which has very fine-cut, thin leaves, sometimes described as shoestring. I grow ‘Coral’ escarole in moderate weather, then ‘Perfect’ when it gets colder. These escaroles have more of an upright growth habit than some of the older varieties and are, therefore, less susceptible to rot.

The plant is cold-tolerant, but moisture is a problem. Growing under plastic—in a hoop house for instance—keeps the rain off and helps prevent bottom rot, besides extending the growing season. Switching to an upright, cold-weather variety like ‘Perfect’ helps. Other ways to reduce rot are cutting the plant before it’s fully grown, and planting earlier so that harvest comes before wet, cool weather.

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Tying up a plant to blanch it can lead to problems with rot on the leaf margins of the internal leaves To minimize this problem, make sure the plant is dry before you tie it up, and limit the amount of overhead irrigation during the time the plant is tied.

As mentioned before, if your soil lacks calcium, tip burn can develop. The ‘Très Fine Maraîchère’ endives are particularly susceptible. Tip-burn shows up most often during spurts of growth when wet, warm conditions follow cool, dry ones. In addition to providing adequate soil calcium, adjust your irrigation practices to keep plants growing evenly.

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It won’t be hard for you to achieve full, nicely blanched heads to rival those going for top price in the produce markets.

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Picture by Chez Loulou Among the vast cornucopia of crops grown by the diversified vegetable farmer, there isn’t another quite like the Belgian endive. Also known as witloof – which means “white leaf” in Dutch – Belgian endives are a long season crop that requires a winter, indoor “forcing” phase to produce tightly-wrapped, almond-shaped, cream colored heads.

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Growing Belgian endive is a two step process that straddles the seasons. The first step, which begins in the spring, is to cultivate Belgian endive in the field for the roots. The second step, which takes place in the late fall and winter, is to cultivate the heads, called chicons, indoors under moist, dark conditions. Click here.

But first, some definitions. Photo by Pat Kight Belgian endives are in the chicory family, a diverse family of plants with a variety of leaf appearances and head shapes. Curly endive, or frisse, has a lacy, finely cut leaf shape. Broad-leaf, or Batavian endives, have a more gently ruffled leaf shape, resembling a head of lettuce.

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They all have in common a bitter flavor – to varying degrees – and vitamins A, B and C, as well as calcium and potassium. Historically, endives were cultivated for their roots, which were dried down and used to brew a dark, bitter, coffee-like beverage. In the mid-1800s – so the story goes – a farmer left to go to war, leaving his harvested crop of chicory roots in the cellar.

And so the cultivation of Belgian endive was born. The Brussels Botanical Garden perfected the forcing process and selected productive varieties. Its export to the US began in 1911. Belgium, the Netherlands and Italy dominated the export of Belgian endive up until the late 1990’s when production was shifted to South America, predominately Chile and Guatemala.

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Depending on the variety, you’ll want to sow it 110 to 140 days before a hard frost. Belgian endive can tolerate light frost, but planting too early in the season can cause bolting. In our 2010 Belgian endive trials here in Northern Vermont, we found that the optimal sowing date was late June/early July.

They like well-drained, loose soil to promote sufficient development of the roots. Remember, for the first phase of growing endive, the roots are your crop. The plants prefer a pH of 6.5 or above. Fertility management must be handled carefully as too much nitrogen will promote vigorous top development resulting in poorly formed roots.

The optimal root diameter is around 1.5”. Roots that are too small will produce chicons with loose heads; too large and the chicons may have off-shoots. We used a plastic mulch lifter, which has long finger-like forks in the front of the toolbar that use the force of the soil to lift the roots to the surface.

On a smaller scale, roots can easily be dug with a digging fork, similar to carrots or parsnips. Care should be taken not to nick or damage the roots, since damaged roots may be prone to rotting during storage or forcing. Allow the roots to dry in the field for a few days or so, covered with straw or with the layered leaves over the roots to prevent exposure to frost and/or direct sunlight.

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It is common for growers to trim roots as well, to an 8” length in order to have uniform height in the planting beds. Roots that are forked will still produce chicons, although on a larger production scale they can be more logistically challenging to position in the planting beds.

Store endive roots in conditions similar to those favored by other root vegetables – 32-34 degrees with high humidity – for at least a week or until ready for planting. Chicons will emerge about three weeks after replanting the roots. Harvest of the chicons can be staggered by off-setting the replanting of the roots from storage.

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Growing endive is a simple process that requires more patience than anything else (growfoodguide.com). Successful root production is a key component of growing Belgian endives since the roots provide the basis for future growth. What you start with is what you end up with - you won’t get a high quality product from poor quality roots! The result is well worth it: crunchy, succulently fresh winter greens, with a flavor and a texture unlike any other.

How to grow endive, a popular salad vegetable on the Continent there are two types: curly endive (chicorée frisée), which is more heat-resistant, and Batavian or broad leaved (escarole); there are also intermediate hybrids. Endive is traditionally cultivated as an Autumn or early Winter crop. If grown under cover in a cold greenhouse, cropping can continue into Spring.

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Sow in situ and thin, or in seed trays or modules and transplant (this is the best method for early spring sowings). Spacing varies from 25-37cm (10-15") each way depending on cultivar. Plants take about 3 months to reach maturity. Sow in April indoors at 68ª F (20ª C) in seed trays or modules, using early varieties but early sowings are prone to bolting so you're better off waiting till late May and continue till mid July for continuity.

Harden off and plant out under cloches or crop covers. Make a further sowing indoors in May. The main sowing for autumn cropping should be made outdoors in June or July (any type). Sow a broad leaved or hardy curled cultivar in a cold greenhouse in August. Endive is best sown in modular trays and planted out in about 4 weeks.

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Water your plants well an hour before planting. To plant your seedling make a hole in the soil the approximate size of the seedling 'plug'. You need to push the soil in around the roots firmly with your fingers to get good contact with the soil. Dont firm down on the top of the soil as this can compact it and prevent moisture getting down to the plants roots.

You are better to transplant on a dull day or in the evening to prevent the plants wilting on a hot, dry day. Endive Seedling Care Keep your seedlings moist but do not over water. You are actually far better to under rather than over water your plants. This may sound odd but making the roots search for water helps to develop a better root system.

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You do need to be careful, however, not to let the compost plug completely dry out or it will form a crust on top and won't absorb the moisture the next time you water.It will all depend on the weather of course but on a hot day you will need to water twice a day, if it's it's dull every 2 days will be fine.

When a plant bolts it will produce a tall seed head, when this happenes it's all over, you'll be digging it up and starting again.To avoid bolting keep your plants well watered and the soil moist. I know you're probably groaning seeing seeing a picture of a hoe but it you do it often it is pretty much effortless.

You will also find hoeing makes your crops grow better. This is because it breaks up the top layer of the soil and lets air and moisture circulate freely. Hoeing does a lot more than clear weeds, believe me. Love your hoe, keep at it regularly and it's a breeze.

Some modern varieties don't need blanching but come on, it's half the fun, no? The recommended way of blanching is to pull the outer leaves over the centre of the plant and tie together with string 2 weeks or so before you harvest. You then cover the centre of the plant with a plate which gives the familiar 'sunburst' look.

Endive is susceptible to the same pests and diseases as lettuce, but may not be attacked. Slugs, and sometimes leaf aphids can be problems.

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People who like Belgian endive like it so much they grow it twice. In fact, they have no choice. Endive, perhaps the most famous member of the chicory family, is grown in two stages, once for the roots, and a second time for its yellow and white leaves. It is a particularly welcome member of the family in that it can produce crunchy salads throughout the entire winter if you grow enough roots.

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This educational pictorial will show you how to enjoy some of Belgium’s finest without leaving your own backyard (Click here). Step 1: Plant endive seeds in spring (early June, for most places) in rich soil, two rows per 30 inch (.76 meter) bed, 6 inches (15 cm) apart. Plants will grow upwards forming lush green foliage.

They are the “business end” of the plant and the storehouse of energy for the second phase of growth. Step 3: Cut off the leaves to within an inch or two (2-4 cm) or so and add feed the leaves to your nitrogen hungry compost pile. Step 4: Trim the roots down to a uniform length of 6-8 inches (15-20 cm).

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Regular soil or peat can also be used, but it is difficult to use for filling in the gaps. Cover and store pails in the coolest location available. Step 6. Three weeks before you want to enjoy your first endive feast, move the bucket to a 50-60 degree (10-15 celsius) location within your house adding water, if necessary.

Keep the bucket covered so as not to allow light through. This is what keeps the leaves white. Within a few days, new growth will begin to appear. Step 7: Check on your bucket from time to time. Roughly three weeks after stage 6, you should be able to cut your first endive salad.

Don’t worry if your endives don’t hold together tightly in a conical form, the flavor will be the same. Step 8: Enjoy your harvest! .

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Growing Guide GROWING NOTESPartial shade beneficial in hot weather. Biennial grown as an annual. MAINTAININGLike lettuce and other cool-season greens, endive needs short days and cool temperatures.Direct seed ¼-inch deep in rows 18 inches apart 2 to 4 weeks before average last frost. Make succession plantings for continuous harvest. growfoodguide.com. Thin to 8 to 12 inches.For extra-early crops, start seed inside 6 to 8 weeks before last frost.

Mulch to retain moisture and suppress weeds.For fall harvests, direct seed in garden about 2 to 3 months before expected fall frost. Light frost enhances flavor.Blanch heading varieties for a milder flavor. A week or so before harvest, pull outer leaves over head and tie. Make sure leaves are dry to avoid rot.

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Two months before the final spring frost date, fill each cell of a plastic seed tray with a sterile seed-starting mix. Moisten the mix with water and place two sees to each cell. To make handling the seeds easier, tear the seed pack in half, making the pack into a v-shape and lightly tap the pack so that one or two seeds drop out at a time.

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Miscellaneous ● Rich, moisture-retentive soil with plenty of compost dug in. Sun preferred but tolerant of some shade. Yes. Not usually required. Radicchio, Mizuna, Tatsoi and Mustard. 9" (25cm) each way (minimum) 7" (20cm) with 11" (30cm) row gap (minimum) Sow directly into soil in late spring.Our Garden Planner can produce a personalized calendar of when to sow, plant and harvest for your area.

Sow from February to October for ‘cut and come again’ seedlings, if the soil is warm enough, or under glass or horticultural fleece, sowing every three weeks. Sow ‘cut and come again’ crops in broad drills or containers. Soils should be light, rich and free draining, but any soil can be used as long as it is not waterlogged.

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Higher temperatures encourage bitterness, though curled types are heat tolerant. Water thoroughly before the onset of dry weather, mulch and keep weed free. Liquid feed fortnightly in summer with a general fertiliser. Blanch endive about 12 weeks after sowing when the heads have matured. Make sure the leaves are dry (damp leaves are likely to rot) and tie them loosely together with raffia or soft string.

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Blanching takes about 10-14 days, but in cooler autumn weather may take longer. Blanch a few at a time, as plants rapidly deteriorate afterwards (especially in warm or rainy weather). ‘Cut and come again’ crops can be harvested after about five weeks – one or two cuts are possible before they run to seed.

Remedy: There are many ways to control slugs and snails, including beer traps, sawdust or eggshell barriers, copper tape and biocontrols. Look for colonies of greenfly on the soft shoot tips of plants or on leaves. vegetable. They suck sap and excrete sticky honeydew, encouraging the growth of black sooty moulds.

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Sever the head with a sharp knife when the leaves are creamy white.Harvest ‘cut and come again’ leaves with scissors. An attractive frisée type which is resistant to ‘bolting’. Compact and uniform with very finely cut leaves – used in top restaurants. High yielding and well flavoured, with a very deeply cut leaf.

Resistant to ‘bolting’. A short-leaf Batavian type. Hardy for winter cropping, does not need ‘blanching’. An old variety - very tasty and extremely hardy. Large, vigorous and high yielding with rich, green, finely cut leaves. Good for ‘cut and come again’ cropping.

(Cichorium endivia) A long appreciated European delicacy, these crops add a lightly bitter piquancy to salads. All are best grown in rich soil, and cooler weather; in most of the country, this makes them best-suited to the fall garden. Grown in about the same way as lettuce. Usually sown in mid-summer to mature in cool autumn weather.

Do not let young seedlings become root-bound. Set plants into the garden when they've reached a convenient size. Some gardeners tie the outer leaves around the inner heart to blanch, which makes the crop milder; other folks prefer the slight bitterness as a counterpoint in their salads.

Short Description Sweet and compact curly endive (growfoodguide.com). Full Description With its compact head and finely cut leaves, this frisse is well suited for small gardens. Frequently used in salads with lettuce, the slightly bitter flavor is a perfect accent for any salad. Galia frisée is much milder than endive and radicchio and delicious when paired with fruity dressings.

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Buy this product Item # Product Order Quantity Price Item#:67030A Order: 1 Pkt. (950 seeds) This product is temporarily out of stock; we're updating inventory continuously so please check back again or click on "notify me" for an email notification. we are sorry for the inconvenience Product properties Days To Maturity The average number of days from when the plant is actively growing in the garden to the expected time of harvest.

Full sun means 6 hours of direct sun per day; partial sun means 2-4 hours of direct sun per day; shade means little or no direct sun. Full Sun Spread The width of the plant at maturity. 6 inches Height The typical height of this product at maturity. 8-10 inches Sow Method This refers to whether the seed should be sown early indoors and the seedlings transplanted outside later, or if the seed should be sown directly in the garden at the recommended planting time.

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Fall, Spring 100% satisfactionguaranteed Images Enlarge Photo Print Page Growing Calendar for Grow (0) Growing information For optimum flavor, grow in cool weather after danger of frost. Will not germinate at temperatures over 80 degrees F. Sow in average soil in full sun in early spring for the first crop and again in late summer for a fall crop.

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Firm lightly and keep evenly moist. Seedlings emerge in 7-10 days depending on soil and weather conditions. Thin gradually to stand 8 inches apart so there is enough room for the heads to develop. When leaves reach 10 inches long, about 40 days after sowing, tie them together to blanch the center leaves.

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Remove bands during rain periods to prevent rotting. Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating. Avoid disturbing the soil around the plants when weeding.

Plants need about 1 inch of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It’s best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems.

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Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area. Start harvesting when leaves are 4-6 inches. If blanching, cut the plants at their base after two to three weeks of blanching and discard the outer leaves. Use the slightly bitter inner leaves to add depth to salads as a garnish.

Wash prior to use. Product Details Days To Maturity 40-70 days Sow Method Direct Sow/Indoor Sow Planting Time Fall, Spring Reviews (Seeds).

Regarded in some circles as essential to a great salad, endive is a leafy vegetable also known as frisee, with intricately lobed, frilly leaves that provide loft and texture as well as distinctive, somewhat bitter flavor. The plants have a naturally dense habit that tends to exclude sunlight from the hearts, creating a center with beautifully white to pale-yellow, blanched leaves.

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For a more blanched center than self-blanching can provide, the plants can be tied with twine to exclude light from the centers. The plants should not remain tied for more than 3 or 4 days, or the centers will begin to decay due to lack of air circulation. An alternative method is to place a 4–8" cardboard disk or plate over the plant for 3–4 days.

Picture by Chez Loulou Among the vast cornucopia of crops grown by the diversified vegetable farmer, there isn’t another quite like the Belgian endive. Also known as witloof – which means “white leaf” in Dutch – Belgian endives are a long season crop that requires a winter, indoor “forcing” phase to produce tightly-wrapped, almond-shaped, cream colored heads.

Growing Belgian endive is a two step process that straddles the seasons. The first step, which begins in the spring, is to cultivate Belgian endive in the field for the roots. The second step, which takes place in the late fall and winter, is to cultivate the heads, called chicons, indoors under moist, dark conditions.

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But first, some definitions. Photo by Pat Kight Belgian endives are in the chicory family, a diverse family of plants with a variety of leaf appearances and head shapes. Curly endive, or frisse, has a lacy, finely cut leaf shape. Broad-leaf, or Batavian endives, have a more gently ruffled leaf shape, resembling a head of lettuce.

They all have in common a bitter flavor – to varying degrees – and vitamins A, B and C, as well as calcium and potassium. Historically, endives were cultivated for their roots, which were dried down and used to brew a dark, bitter, coffee-like beverage. In the mid-1800s – so the story goes – a farmer left to go to war, leaving his harvested crop of chicory roots in the cellar.

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And so the cultivation of Belgian endive was born. The Brussels Botanical Garden perfected the forcing process and selected productive varieties. Its export to the US began in 1911. Belgium, the Netherlands and Italy dominated the export of Belgian endive up until the late 1990’s when production was shifted to South America, predominately Chile and Guatemala (gardening).

Depending on the variety, you’ll want to sow it 110 to 140 days before a hard frost. Belgian endive can tolerate light frost, but planting too early in the season can cause bolting. In our 2010 Belgian endive trials here in Northern Vermont, we found that the optimal sowing date was late June/early July.

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They like well-drained, loose soil to promote sufficient development of the roots. Remember, for the first phase of growing endive, the roots are your crop. The plants prefer a pH of 6.5 or above. Fertility management must be handled carefully as too much nitrogen will promote vigorous top development resulting in poorly formed roots.

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In High Mowing’s 2010 Belgian endive trials, seeds were planted in late June using a hand-push precision seeder with a planting density of 15 seeds/ft in rows 18” apart. Plants were thinned to a 4” plant spacing to allow for uniform sizing when plants averaged 3” tall. In a home garden, seeds can be sown thickly by hand and then thinned to the spacing above.

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The optimal root diameter is around 1.5”. Roots that are too small will produce chicons with loose heads; too large and the chicons may have off-shoots. We used a plastic mulch lifter, which has long finger-like forks in the front of the toolbar that use the force of the soil to lift the roots to the surface.

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On a smaller scale, roots can easily be dug with a digging fork, similar to carrots or parsnips. Care should be taken not to nick or damage the roots, since damaged roots may be prone to rotting during storage or forcing. Allow the roots to dry in the field for a few days or so, covered with straw or with the layered leaves over the roots to prevent exposure to frost and/or direct sunlight.

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It is common for growers to trim roots as well, to an 8” length in order to have uniform height in the planting beds. Roots that are forked will still produce chicons, although on a larger production scale they can be more logistically challenging to position in the planting beds.

Store endive roots in conditions similar to those favored by other root vegetables – 32-34 degrees with high humidity – for at least a week or until ready for planting. Chicons will emerge about three weeks after replanting the roots. Harvest of the chicons can be staggered by off-setting the replanting of the roots from storage.

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Growing endive is a simple process that requires more patience than anything else. Successful root production is a key component of growing Belgian endives since the roots provide the basis for future growth. What you start with is what you end up with - you won’t get a high quality product from poor quality roots! The result is well worth it: crunchy, succulently fresh winter greens, with a flavor and a texture unlike any other.

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Please refer to the top of the website for updated information. Thank you for helping to support our biodiversity preservation work with your orders, for your patience, stay safe, and we hope that you have a fruitful gardening season. Due to the unexpected and radical depletion of our inventory, catalog sales have been rendered irrelevant and our 2020 catalog is no longer available.

Thank you for your understanding and patience during these trying times. All of our seeds are open-pollinated, non-hybrid, not chemically treated, many are rare, family heirlooms or endangered, and we will never knowingly offer genetically engineered, aka GMO, varieties. Mini FAQ For over twenty-two years, people from all over the world have sent us their interesting and prized family seed varieties.

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Grow Guide Conditions: Chicories are cool season crops and grow best at 60–70°F, but can be planted in early spring as soon as the soil can be worked. Warmer conditions lead to strong bitterness. In warm climates, greater success can be had with late summer plantings that mature in the cool weather of late fall.

Endive and escarole are grown similarly to lettuce. Radicchio is less predictable and requires precise timing to head up, so trial several varieties each planting season to see which perform best in your location. Dandelion can be grown throughout the season. Grow Guide Seed: Chicories can be direct seeded or transplanted.

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To start seedlings indoors, fill starter trays with a sterile seed starting mix. Plant 2 seeds per cell, 1/4 inch deep. Thin to 1 plant per cell. Harden-off seedlings for 5–7 days prior to transplanting. Transplant 5-6 week old seedlings outside in a fertile garden bed, 10-12 inches apart, allowing 18-24 inches between rows.

As the plants size up, gradually thin to one plant every 10-12 inches, eating the thinnings. Grow Guide Pests: Chicory is not bothered by many pests. Keep evenly watered, provide adequate Calcium and avoid excessive Nitrogen and Phosphorus to prevent tipburn. Encourage beneficial insect activity by planting alyssum nearby to suppress aphid populations.

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If desired, blanch endive and escarole by resting a plate or cone on the center of the head 3 days before harvest. Wash in cold water and store in the refrigerator to crisp up. Harvest radicchio by cutting at the base when heads have formed, remembering that a significant portion of plants may not head up depending on the timing of the planting.

Learning Download: How to Grow Chicory Chicory is a great addition to any salad, and varietals include the more commonly known endive and radicchio. The leafy vegetable offers a nutty flavor to salads. Chicory is a cool-weather plant, tolerating the occasional frost. Chicory is hardy and can be planted when frost is still around in spring.

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Careful variety selection is important for hot weather plantings. For direct seeding, seeds will germinate from 45–85°F with highest germination at 75°F, depending on the variety and seed lot. Sow seeds 1″ apart, rows 12–18″ apart. Cover seed lightly, about 1/8″, and tap soil down gently. Thin to 8″ apart.

For transplanting, sow 2-3 seeds in cells, barely covering seeds with fine vermiculite, 3-4 weeks before transplanting outdoors. Shade the flats on sunny, warm days if necessary to keep the soil surface cool, below 70°F, until germination. Harden seedlings by reducing water and temperature for 4-5 days before planting outdoors.

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Transplant 8″ apart in rows 18″ apart. Transplant shallowly so that the base of the plant will be slightly above the soil to discourage bottom rot. For salad mix/baby leaf, sow 3-4 seeds per inch. Cover seeds lightly, about 1/8″, tap soil down gently and keep surface moist until emergence (3-10 days). gardening.

Chicory requires attentive weeding and well-drained soil. Water 1-2 inches per week. To retain moisture, add mulch around the plants. Fertilize with a nitrogen-based fertilizer. Chicory leaves are ready to harvest when they reach about 12 to 18 inches in height. (See each variety for days to maturity) Pull the plant, roots included, from the soil gently and chop off the root, but keep the leaves.

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Chicory does best in full sun in a soil with a pH of 5.5 or greater. 1M/220′, 5M/1,100′, 10M/2,200′, 131M/acre at 3 seeds every 8″ in rows 18″ apart.