The vital tool of woodcutters simply will not cut it when it becomes dull. Learn the know-how you will need to hone it .
Whether you are a timber worker or you are simply interested in cutting your own firewood, it is crucial to keep a professional attitude to the use and upkeep of your chainsaw. As tons of teeth chew through dense wood, they are bound to become dull, reducing the tool's effectiveness and making it more physically demanding that you control. Regular waxing, accomplished by submitting, will keep your chainsaw like an extremely rugged kitten. Before you attempt the task, continue reading to find the ways and means of suitable chainsaw sharpening.
Know Your String
Inspect the cutters (saw teeth) in your chain loop. The semicircular cutting edges can be quickly sharpened and reshaped using a round file. A depth-gauge fin facing every cutter controls how heavy the cutter bites into the wood. The angles floor on the cutters alternate between right and left to maintain the saw cutting directly.
The cutters have semicircular cutting edges in particular diameters; to sharpen them, use a round file of the same diameter. Facing each cutter is a"thickness gauge," a piece of metal shaped like a shark fin. The thickness judge's suggestion is a hair shorter than the tip of the cutter and controls how heavy the cutter can bite. After repeated sharpening, the cutters can become level with the thickness gauges and keep the saw from cuttingedge. It's easy to lessen the thickness gauges to the ideal height with a flat-file and document manual.
Assess the Waste to See if it is Time to Sharpen
Examine the waste material out of your saw cuts.
Professional tip: Dust means it is time to sharpen. Chips indicate that the cutters are sharp.
Note: A dull chain is harmful it greatly increases the odds of kickback. The series is more likely to grab in the substance and propel the bar up toward the operator. (Read With a Chain Saw Safely, for more info ).
Professional tip: Sharpening is simple if the cutters have dulled from regular use. If the cutters are nicked poorly from casual contact with stones, soil, or items embedded in trees, then you might have to have the series professionally sharpened or purchase a new one.
Have the Ideal Tools on Hand
Purchase four tools for freehand to use as a chainsaw sharpener:
A round file which matches the diameter diameter.
Notice: Popular diameters for medium-duty chainsaws are 5/32, 3/16 and 7/32 inches. Check the operator's guide to your saw's requirements, or use the string identification number stamped on the drive connection. Small-engine dealers and hardware stores have graphs to match this amount with the ideal file diameter.
A file guide to maintain the round file in a uniform thickness as you sharpen each cutter.
A flat file.
A depth-gauge manual for resetting the thickness gauges.
Pro tip: Do not use a typical rattail file as a chainsaw sharpener. Its tapered diameter and rough teeth will mess up your string's cutters.
Kinds of Chainsaw Sharpeners
In regards to chainsaw sharpeners, you have a number of different options to select from.
Finding the right one will depend on three things:
How much effort you need to put in the sharpening process?
How quickly you need to get the series sharp
Just how much cash you have to spend
While there are chainsaw sharpeners to meet everybody's wants and needs and can fit into a wide range of budgets, there are two general classes which sharpeners fall into:
Electric Chainsaw Sharpeners
Manual Chainsaw Sharpeners
1. Electric Chainsaw Sharpeners
Electric chainsaw sharpeners require a power supply to keep them running.
Some use a plug which goes into a standard wall socket while others operate on batteries.
However, it is possible to locate portable electric chainsaw sharpeners which can be attached to a vehicle's battery, making them simple to use while working in the area.
One of these options can be an efficient, speedy way to sharpen your chain.
When you are searching for an electric chainsaw sharpener, you might find that they come in two types:
Electric Bench Sharpeners These are probably the best type of chainsaw sharpener you can get. They are made to attach to a seat, table, or wall in your garage or workshop, and they look and operate like a metal grinder or vise.
They're the finest electric chainsaw sharpener because they are a remarkably accurate tool that lets you sharpen the chainsaw while it's stationary, giving you more control.
To use a seat sharpener, you are going to set the string securely in the clamp, adjust the angle of the grinder, then turn on the engine, and then file the cutters on the string.
As soon as you're done with one section, you will switch off the motor, adjust the chain, and repeat the procedure until each cutter on the chain was sharpened.
Electric Handheld Sharpeners These sharpeners are mobile and use a spinning disk to record down the cutters on the chainsaw chain. They are equipped with a guide to make sure that you keep a precise and steady angle.
As this unit is handheld, it is essential that you control the speed and precision.
This sharpener is most appropriate for men and women that are comfortable taking on fine handwork tasks. If this describes you, then using this tool will be simple.
With a handheld sharpener is slower than using an electrical chair sharpener. However, you can sharpen the chain while it's still attached to your chainsaw, which may save you some time.
You also have the choice of taking off the chain and placing in a vise.
It's your responsibility to do whatever you are most comfortable with.
Here's My TOP Picks For The BEST Electric Chainsaw Sharpener
Oregon 410-120 120V Bench/Wall Mounted Saw Chain Grinder, Professional Sharpener for Chainsaw Chains
Buffalo Tools ECSS Electric Chainsaw Sharpener
85W Mini Bench Mount Electric Chainsaw Grinder Sharpener
Electric Rating 120VAC / 60Hz / 0.8A 85Watts
Motor No Load Speed 4;200 RPM
Saw Chain Pitch 1/4 ' And 3/8'
Arbor Size 7/8'
Vise Capacity 0.05' To 0.080'
Max. Accessory Diameter 4-1/4' (108mm)
Max. Wheel Thickness 1/8'
Mounting Hardware 2x1/4' Bolts And Nuts (sold Separately) This string grinder boasts a strong 85WATT engine and is bench mounted providing you with a steady base to work from. With a pivoting head and vice angles flexible through 35º to the left and the right, complete with a brake to hold the string in place whilst grinding/sharpening. Suitable for the user wanting to quickly keep a lot of chains from several gears in peek condition regularly when using the chainsaws on a daily basis - but also cost effective enough to be appealing to the user who wants to make sure their string is in great cutting condition.
2. Manual Chainsaw Sharpeners
As its name suggests, a manual chainsaw sharpener does not have any electrical components in any respect.
They are powered by your body and hand motions.
You will sometimes find these tools known as"chainsaw files".
To utilize a manual chainsaw sharpener, you transfer the document throughout the guide in 1 direction. This sharpens the teeth at a time.
You move from 1 cutter to another until each cutter on the chainsaw has been sharpened.
As you can imagine, this is a slower way to sharpen your chainsaw , but it is the most accurate and cost-effective.
When it comes to ensuring that you are not over-sharpening the cutters and causing harm, using a chainsaw is a fantastic option.
If you are just getting into this clinic, you may want to begin with a manual sharpener until you understand just how the cutters should look so you don't hurt your chainsaw.
An additional advantage of having a manual sharpener is that it may be taken with you in the area.
These are small and lightweight tools, which means that you can throw them in your package or to your tool belt.
If you're doing plenty of work in the area and are away from an electric supply, using a manual chainsaw sharpener document will let you maintain your string sharp while you cut trees down and slicing wood up.
Even if you choose to obtain an electric chainsaw sharpener, it is a fantastic idea to have a manual sharpener on hand, just in case.
You can use the manual tool as you're actively working out, which saves you time and lets you sharpen your string anywhere so you could quickly return to work.
Here's My TOP Picks For The BEST Manual Chainsaw Sharpener
Oregon Chainsaw Field Sharpening Kit - Includes 5/32, 3/16, and 7/32 Inch Round Files
Katzco Chainsaw Sharpener File Kit - Contains 5/32, 3/16, and 7/32 Inch Files
Stihl 2 IN 1 EASY FILE CHAINSAW CHAIN SHARPENER .325"
Get Ready to Sharpen
Engage the chain brake and lightly clamp the bar in a vice.
Put the manual between the rivets on the string, with the arrows on the manual pointing toward the nose of the bar.
Stick to the angle of the top plate of the cutter; the pliers on the manual to keep you from going too deep into the side plate of the cutter.
Document at the Right Angles
Mount your round file in the document guide.
Hold the file in a 30- or 35-degree angle (check your saw's cutters) to the bar horizontally and at a perfect angle vertically.
Stroke Away from Your Body
Cut a 2-inch deep here at a log and break the saw bar in it to secure it while sharpening.
Put the file and file guide to a cutter on the top and near the end of the bar.
Mark the top of this cutter using a felt-tipped pencil to indicate where you started using a chainsaw sharpener.
Line up the document with the factory-ground angle onto the cutter.
Note: This is nearly always 30 or 35 degrees. Most file manuals have 30- and 35-degree angles etched in their upper side that will assist you preserve the angle as you record.
Make a stroke, keeping the correct angle on the cutter, parallel to the floor and away from the body.
Note: You will feel the manual riding on top of the cutter and depth gauge. The first few strokes on a dull cutter may vibrate your hands a little.
Using steady, even strokes with the document, give each cutter 5 or 6 strokes before the surface of the cutter is shiny silver.
Pro tip: whenever you feel a burr along the cutter's outer border, the cutter is sharp.
Professional tip: Count your strokes, and then use the exact same number of strokes on each cutter.
Advance the Chain
After sharpening a couple of those cutters, launch the chain brake.
Rotate the string forward to expose more cutters to sharpen.
Professional tip: Wear gloves when you advance the string. But while submitting the cutters, you might find you have a much better"feel" for the contact between the document and cutter if you operate barehanded.
Reset the brake and sharpen the brand new section.
Keep repeating this step until you've sharpened one side of the series.
Sharpen the Other Side of the Chain
Continue sharpening cutters until you get to the one you marked.
Proceed to the other side of the saw bar and sharpen the opposite-angled cutters, again with the exact same number of strokes each cutter.
How to set the appropriate depth gauge?
The depth gauge setting determines how heavy the tooth will cut. If the depth gauge setting is set very low, the airplane takes a tiny amount of wood.
If the thickness gauge is set too high the cutting tooth will cut too deeply into the wood. This produces a more aggressive cut leading to high vibration. This also raises the chance of kickback and exposes the chainsaw unnecessary stress.
Examine the thickness gauge every 3-5 times that you sharpen the chain during normal wear, and more frequently during excessive wear. Use the depth gauge tool and flat file to examine and set the right height. "Soft" and"Hard" stamped on the judge identifies softwood (conifers) and suspended or timber (leaf trees).
More Sharpening Tips
If your saw pulls to the side when cutting, it is because the cutters on this side are sharper than those on the opposite side. To maintain your saw cutting in a straight line, be a fanatic about submitting each cutter with the identical number of strokes and the identical amount of pressure.
Cutters can be sharpened up to ten times or more before the string needs replacing. If your cutters are worn unevenly after a couple of sharpenings, a specialist can regrind them into a uniform form.
If you use the identical chain for a couple of years, then purchase a new one, the new one will not mesh easily with the sprocket and pub. It is going to cause more rapid cutting and faster wear on the saw. Bob Tacke, the chainsaw specialist, advises:"Buy two additional chains and switch off one of the three occasions. This way all the components of the very train pub, sprockets, and chains will fit together and extend the life span of your saw."
Document guides which clamp to the pub will make certain you file at precisely the exact same angle on each cutter. They take a bit longer to work with, but they restore the cutting edge into the specific factory-ground angle, so there's less chance you will have to have your string reground with a professional sharpener.
When in doubt, take your string to a pro? An expert will use a power chainsaw sharpener that looks like a mini-compound miter saw to exactly regrind each cutter to a uniform depth and cutting angle.
When to replace the series?
It is time to replace your chainsaw when the longest portion of the outer tooth is less than 4 millimeters or if you find cracks.
Normal chainsaw maintenance requires one to pay close attention to the sharpness of your string for the two efficiencies and safety. A sharp chain cuts fast and easily and keeps you from getting too quickly fatigued. The above-reviewed sharpening tools highlight the many options you have based on what you need, knowledge of the job, in addition to personal preference. Stop paying top dollar to have someone else care for your saw; learn how to quickly and efficiently keep your chain in tip-top shape with a few of the above choices.